Riga makes a strong claim to the first decorated Christmas tree in a public square, and whatever the merits of that claim the city takes the season seriously. From late November until early January several squares in and around the Old Town fill with wooden stalls, and the result is one of the better markets in northern Europe precisely because it has not been scaled up to industrial size.
Where the markets are
The largest and best-known occupies Dome Square in the middle of the Old Town, arranged around a tree with stalls on all sides and a stage that hosts choirs and school performances through December. A second, smaller and generally quieter market runs in Livu Square a short walk away. Others appear seasonally elsewhere in the centre, including in the park belt, and the whole set can be walked between in under twenty minutes.
What is actually sold
The mix leans more toward genuine local craft than is usual at markets of this kind: knitted mittens and wool socks in traditional patterns, ceramics, linen, wooden kitchenware, honey and beeswax candles. On the food side, expect hot spiced wine, grilled sausage, sweet pastries, roasted nuts and various applications of the local herbal liqueur to hot drinks.
- Go on a weekday evening. Weekends are noticeably busier and the stalls are hardest to browse.
- Carry some cash. Most stalls take cards, but the smallest craft sellers may not.
- Dress for standing still. Standing outdoors for an hour in December is much colder than walking for one.
- Visit more than one. The smaller squares are quieter and often have the better craft stalls.
Timing the season
The markets generally open in the second half of November and run to the first days of January, with the busiest fortnight immediately before Christmas. The days around the holiday itself are the quietest in the whole season, when many visitors have gone home and much of the city is with family; that lull is arguably the nicest time to be here if the atmosphere rather than the shopping is the point.
Beyond the stalls
The season extends past the markets themselves. Concerts run in the churches through Advent, the Old Town is lit throughout, and the ice rinks and decorated shop windows give a reason to walk in the dark. Because it gets dark by mid-afternoon, the lit version of the city is simply the version you see for most of your stay. The churches in particular are worth going into whether or not there is a concert on, since they are among the few large heated interiors open through the evening.
Three or four days in December gives enough time for the markets, a concert, and the museums when the cold wins. Book accommodation early for the fortnight before Christmas, and dress for standing outside rather than for walking.
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